A Cosmetic Doctor's skincare routine

When you think of a Cosmetic Doctor, you imagine someone with skin that’s bouncy and clear, with the glow on TEN, etc, etc - and at least 10 years younger in appearance, right? Well, Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe is all that and then some. I’ve been admiring her work - and skin - for a while now and love how upfront she is with advice via DMs. So, I decided to set up an interview - most of it has been saved for my podcast (launching soon if my tech person comes through sigh) and the rest of it for my blog, because I know you’ll want to dive into her routine. Oh and if you’re clueless about Retinols, you’ll really want to read what Ewoma has to say.

So, here’s Ewoma’s morning routine…
In the morning I’ll start with a gentle cleanser, so perhaps Epionce Milky Lotion Cleanser, Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 or Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser - I love that cleanser.

Okay, wait a minute; I literally just bought myself that Glossier cleanser - but I wasn’t expecting a Cosmetic Doctor to love it! Why do you like it?
Because it’s nothing-ness and everything-ness in one! It’s not gonna cure your acne or pigmentation, but, because it’s so gentle, basic and non-stripping, it’s great for morning use, or if you’ve got sensitive or dry skin. It’s ideal right now as my routine is so heavy with actives, I don’t like to go so heavy on the cleansers.

Back to your routine…
After that, it’s usually a Glycolic cream from Obagi, because my skin’s such a mess right now. It’s a medical grade brand, made by a super famous dermatologist. After that I really like the PCA Weightless Broad Spectrum SPF45 - I’ll use a 10p size amount, then I’ll mix it with either an oil or their Collagen Hydrator.
I always mix things into my SPF, just because I’m lazy. When it’s very sunny and hot or I’m on holiday, I’ll make a conscious effort to really layer my products because that’s the best way to get the UV protection. But when the weather’s cloudy I’ll tend to mix them all up. The oil I use is the Perfecting Facial Oil by Nuori - it has stunning packaging and the ethos of the brand is amazing too. It’s not greasy, it doesn’t break me out and it doesn’t contain essential oils…

And in the evening?
As I’m trying to wipe off the day’s pollution and products, I’ll use a more heavy duty cleanser in the evening. I’ll cleanse with either the Epionce Cleanser or PCA’s Blemish Control Bar, a Salicylic Acid-based cleanser in a block. After that I’ll use some Tretinoin (high-level Retinol); I dabble between 0.05 and 0.1 and that’s it. Tretinoin is Vitamin A but it’s medical grade, and hence is prescription-only.

Tell me more about Retinols, because I feel so many of us are seriously confused! It’s like we know they’re good, but don’t know where to start.
The way I like to describe Retinols to people is, look at it as if it’s on a spectrum. At the weaker end you’ve got things like Retinol Palmitate and plant-based derivative type products. In the middle, you’ve got Retinols that don’t require prescriptions but are still effective. At the higher end, you’ve got Tretinoin. It’s good stuff. It’s pretty heavy duty and it will make you peel like a snake shedding its skin. It’s not for everyone - your face will flake, you’ll have to carry moisturiser everywhere with you. I’ve been going HAM with it so around my mouth the skin gets very dry and flaking.

So how do you deal with flaking when you have clients?
If I’m peeling I’ll pile on the facial oil from Nouri and the collagen hydrator from PCA, maybe a hyaluronic acid serum. It does make your skin purge a little bit too so you might break out, but your skin will be left like a baby’s bum.

How about scarring - does Retinol work? 100 percent.

If you have anti-ageing concerns, is Retinol the ingredient to look out for?
Yes! It’s clinically proven that Retinol treats wrinkles.

How can I fit Retinols into my current routine, which is quite acid-heavy (Glycolic Acid and Vitamin C) at the moment?
In the beginning, try it a couple of nights a week. I tend to use those acids you’ve mentioned during the day so they can get to work, but you must make sure to wear plenty of SPF. Retinols should only be applied at night as they can increase your skin’s sensitivity. Retinol is my ride or die - it’s a product I will use ‘til the day I die. If you’re using Retinol consistently for five to 10 years, you will look younger, without a doubt.

I rarely see you with a full face of makeup - and you definitely don’t need it - but do you ever indulge?
I look like a new person with makeup! A full face though? It really depends what I’m up to that month, if I have meetings or events. It’s probably around three to five times a month.

I wish I could say the same! Do you have any other questions for Dr Ewoma? Let me know, or find her at @skndoctor over on Instagram.