Newsletter #53: The advert for new Prada Beauty perfume Paradoxe directed by Emma Watson

More and more I’ve been trying to lean into the things that make me, me. Getting a bit obsessed and involved over a particular image, show, campaign or music video is always something I’ve enjoyed doing, but I’ve never really shared it anywhere. But recently, I realised that it could be the way I interact more on social media. I know, social media can be a cesspit of human fails, but it also can be a creative outlet. I just think I’ve always assumed that this outlet involved me having to do dances that make me feel silly, bare my soul, sell my soul for products or rant at the world. Instead I can use it to share the things I’m interested in and if you’re interested too, then hey, it serves another purpose.

So this week’s obsession has been the advert for the new refillable Prada perfume: Paradoxe. Here’s why it’s interesting to me.

What’s a paradox?
Firstly, in case you’re sat there wondering exactly what is a paradox - like I was; it’s a statement that may seem contradictory but can be true, or at least make sense. For example, the phrase, ‘less is more.’

The hashtag for the campaign is in itself a paradox: #neverthesamealwaysmyself hints at how although we are individuals, we can take on many forms, literally and figuratively.

The campaign
Prada chose actress and activist Emma Watson to be the muse and invited her to write her own script, narrate the story and direct the visuals. It’s actually been hilarious to read some of the comments on sites such as The Daily Fail; a lot of men seem to be really upset that the Harry Potter actress got the gig. What’s interesting is the seeming action of putting the actress in charge, of her vision, how we see her; several comments on YouTube suggest that viewers are truly involved and invested in learning more about Emma not just the new fragrance. I find that interesting because of course it could be a gamble for the brand; this could be a move that’s bigger for the actress than the perfume.

It does seem believable that the vision we’re being shown comes very much from Emma; she has often expressed distaste at how forceful societal norms can be - how turning 30 supposedly means you should have life figured out, have a partner and a family etc. In the ad she asks why should she be framed, when the boxes we create are too small? She says she is always herself, no matter her imperfections, her mood or what is happening. She even goes so far as to say: ‘I am partnered with life itself’, which echoes something she said a few years ago about being ‘self-partnered’ and at the time that statement was widely mocked in the press and online.

Today it’s a refreshing message and definitely works with Prada’s own iconic minimalism. Miuccia Prada has been at the helm of the family brand since 1978, and she is the one who instilled an almost severe yet fun approach to fashion. Her collections have often looked a little like school uniforms, from pleated skirts and crisp button-up shirts to stiff coats, but there’s always been an element of frivolity.

When it comes to the new ad, the brand’s own ideals are still there, but there is also a strong reference to ‘90s ideals and beliefs, especially where imaginings of what the future might look like are concerned. For instance the multiple television screens and industrial settings, complete with puddles and heavy boots, definitely look back to music video trends of the ‘90s. It’s also got this dreamy yet earthy vibe - kind of a hopeful note – showing Emma doing yoga surrounded by nature, dancing in the open air and painting a huge work of art. While it does show Emma wearing a virtual reality headset, which is of course a nod to our immediate, very real future, it still feels like a very idealist and yet nostalgic vision of the future, which might make sense as the actress is in her 30s.

While descriptions of the fragrance so far have been limited to big, fruity and floral with hints of leather, as per the Fragrantica site, on Prada Beauty’s YouTube channel a list of three ingredients and descriptions (perhaps reflecting the 3 sides of the isosceles triangle that also denotes the iconic Prada logo) go as follows:

The freshness of Neroli buds

The sensuality of Amber

The intensity of Musk

While that’s a limited description it does sound like something I’d want to try - I love musk and am definitely into the freshness of Neroli. Those three notes also feature in Narciso Rodriguez’s 2021 Neroli Ambree fragrance, which is quite fruity. On the new Prada Beauty Instagram there is also imagery showing vanilla pods, and on their website they mention Jasmine, so I’m not sure if all of these ingredients feature in the new fragrance or if there’s something else we can expect.

Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Ambrée

One thing’s for sure, I don’t think it will be long before Prada lovers will have to wait for makeup - back in 2019 Prada signed a contract with L’Oreal to license their fragrances so makeup is likely to be next. I’m personally quite excited about this, as Prada’s always been one of the fashion houses to skew our definitions of beauty when it comes to its shows. The legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath is often the one that Prada calls on to create magical, sometimes futuristic, always imperfect makeup looks behind the scenes, so I’m really intrigued as to where a potential makeup collection could take us.

For me what is most interesting is just how Prada has managed to capture our attention - even if it’s only until the next beauty launch. The brand has of course launched other perfumes - I used to wear Candy myself - but it seems like it’s enjoying a new evolution since designer Raf Simons joined Miuccia Prada as Co-creative director in 2020. It’s been said that Raf himself is obsessed with the Prada triangle, so I’m wondering if he had any influence over the ad as we see the triangle referenced in buildings, in Emma’s Euphoria-style eye makeup and in her Prada earrings.

Of course the biggest celebration of the triangle comes in the shape of the bottle of Prada Paradoxe.

The triangle bottle has rounded edges for softness and the perfume itself is a coral pink, which actually reminds me of the younger Prada brand, Miu Miu. I really like the deep black lid and I think it might provide a hint re how the potential branding of a makeup line could look. I did read on the Fashion Law that back in June last year the brand trademarked a simplified, black version of their branding, and that makes perfect sense for a strong beauty look. Also, it should be noted that Prada has never taken part in logomania culture – as often utilised by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and instead has always preferred to hint at luxury or coolness, remaining discreet and minimalist, so again it would be interesting to see how that plays out in makeup, or even possibly skincare. It’s still early days but so far I’m seeing a lot of people comparing the bottle with the Guess triangle and the bottle of the Valentino V fragrance from 2005. What I’m really after are real reviews of the fragrance itself. Watch the full ad here:

What do you think? Are you ready for Prada Beauty?

Find out more at https://www.prada-beauty.com/paradoxe.html

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